Evan Bittner Appalachian Trail 2021 SOBO Blog

Lessons Learned

It has been a couple weeks since I completed my hike on Springer Mountain. The time away has provided me some time to think and reflect on the journey. I’ve compiled a list of lessons I’ve learned along the way. It’s certainly not comprehensive, but these are some of the ones that stand out.

⁃ My favorite, “The bad days get better and the good days are great. Enjoy every minute” – Former thru-hiker on Mt. Katahdin. It’s so applicable to life on and off the trail no matter who you are or what you’re doing

⁃ “Starting the journey is the accomplishment, the rest is the reward” – Odie, caretaker of the hiker yearbook

⁃ Stretching, even a little bit, each day will change your life – maybe I embellished this a bit but I highly recommend it

⁃ It’ll work out. Always does. – Synonomous for not letting little things become an annoyance. A bit of caution though with the next tip:

⁃ Don’t let a small problem become a big problem – “Beast’s advice from a poster at hostel during his hike

⁃ Never trust a root – common hiker knowledge often ignored

⁃ “Appreciate the process” – my positive spin on “Embrace the suck”

⁃ “Hike your own hike” – possibly overused but always true

⁃ You regret the things you didn’t do more than the things you did do. – A great motto for taking chances on experiences for learning, growing, and fulfillment

I am grateful for the opportunity to hike the trail. Getting to do something I love, hiking, for six months straight was incredible. All the lessons I learned along the way were more than I could have imagined. Meeting and sharing the trail with so many other unique hikers was a blessing. They are connections I’ll cherish. A special thanks goes to Bag Dad for the inspiration, enthusiasm, and long drives as necessary and Mom, for being supportive of this wild idea I had and mailing packages on a moment’s notice. Last but not least, thank you to all of you who have followed along. Your interest, even unknowingly and in the slightest, provided motivation to keep on walking. Happy trails – Green Bag

By the Numbers

One of the most common questions I get asked is how far do you hike each day? With my hike complete, it’s a good time look back and break it down. The answer, of course, depends on a lot of variables. The terrain is the biggest. As a numbers guy I found it fun to do some quick math.

⁃ 2021 AT Official Length: 2193.1 mile

⁃ 2021 Length including approach trails: 2207.1 mi

⁃ Days to complete trail: 180

⁃ All in mileage per day: 12.3 mi

⁃ Zero days: 20

⁃ Nero days (less than 5 miles hiked): 4

⁃ Off trail days: 13

⁃ Average mileage per day excluding off trail days: 13.2 mi

⁃ Average mileage per day excluding off trail and zero days: 15.0 mi

⁃ Longest day: 27.7 miles

The time to complete entire trail went about how I expected it would go personally. Originally I was thinking it would take about five and a half months to complete the trail. Subtracting away the days I spent off trail for injury or side excursions, that’s about what it took. Breaking it down into north and south reveals a lot more.

Northernmost 700 miles (~ a third of trail):

⁃ Days: 72

⁃ Off trail days: 2

⁃ Zeros: 8

⁃ Neros: 4, and a few almost neros

⁃ All in mileage per day: 9.7 mi

⁃ Average mileage per day excluding off trail days: 10.0 mi

⁃ Average mileage per day excluding off trail and zero days: 11.3 mi

The first 700 miles was the time from starting to getting off trail for my infected feet. I often said 10 to 13 miles a day for Maine and New Hampshire was good progres. 11.3 miles falls right in the middle of that. Between the terrain being rugged and not having trail legs yet it took quite a bit of time to crank up the mileage.

I omitted part of the mid-Atlantic here. I was adjusting to new footwear and building trail legs back up which I had lost after a week and a half. Connecticut through Pennsylvania is the easiest part of the trail and would have likely mirrored how the southern half of the trail went.

Southern half of the trail:

⁃ Days from halfway point near Pine Grove Furnace SP to Springer Mountain: 66

⁃ Days from Harpers Ferry to Springer Mountain: 62

⁃ Zeros: 6

⁃ All in average mileage per day: 17.2 mi

⁃ Average mileage per day excluding zeroes: 18.9 mi

By my standards I crushed the second half of the trail averaging 18.9 miles per day when I hiked. There were lots of 20 mile days and several marathon days. The terrain, while certainly, not flat, is that much smoother. It’s so smooth comparatively that even with similar elevation gain in the southernmost quarter of trail to the northernmost quarter, big miles are consistently attainable. I was tired by the end of it but with trail legs I felt like a machine. Combine that with colder weather, it was a recipe to keep moving. It was a grind towards the end with daylight becoming scarce, but it was still a fun grind. It is certainly neat to look back on the hike already. Given a few more days I’ll have some final thoughts. Reminiscing – Green Bag

Wildcat D in the White Mountains was still the worst of all

Summit Day

The previous evening I pushed to Hawk Mountain Shelter, 8.1 miles to the summit of Springer Mountain. I woke up early and packed up to an amazing sunrise, one of the best yet on trail. The first seven miles were a breeze to USFS 42 where I met Bag Dad for the final mile. It was special to get to hike it with him as he was a big inspiration for the journey. It was an easy mile up to the summit, marked by a couple of plaques. Without Stand Up already hanging out there, it would have been easy to cruise by the terminus without noticing. Springer Mountain is indeed rather underwhelming, but that didn’t subdue the emotions.

There are quite a few dichotomies that come with finishing a thru hike. The first being that anticlimactic scene specific to finishing on Springer Mountain. It was nice in its own way though and somewhat fitting for the general atmosphere of a southbound thru hike. There’s the pride of completing an arduous journey but the humility to be in the select few that had the good fortune to make it. A lot can go wrong. There’s the elation of success but a great sadness that it’s over. There’s nothing quite like a thru hike, and while it’s nearly indescribable, every thru hiker knows what it means. Adjusting to life afterwards is known to be difficult for many. With the monotony of packing up and walking all day everyday comes unforgettable moments and valuable lessons. The trail hasn’t fundamentally changed me but it certainly left its mark. Perhaps the starkest contrast of them all is while traveling well over 2000 miles on foot is an enormous accomplishment, all I did was simply walk. I think that sums it up well. Mission accomplished- Green Bag

Stand Up and I before we hit the Approach Trail

Amicalola Falls near the bottom of the Approach Trail

Walking Back To Georgia

After exiting the Great Smoky Mountains, Georgia and Springer Mountain were quite near all of the sudden. The trail heads south through North Carolina for roughly 90 miles towards Georgia. The last major climb of the southern end of the trail is out of the Nantahala Outdoor Center, a rafting resort and outfitter. A day later the trail crosses US 64 at Winding Stair Gap where I got a ride into Franklin, NC. I enjoyed one more restful zero, sampling breweries and eating all the good food I could stomach before the final push into and through Georgia. Coming back out of Franklin southbound is Albert Mountain with a well built Firetower including an observation room. It was fun to take in the sights and mentally prepare for the final one hundred miles of trail.

The next day I had arrived in Georgia. After all that time, there I was. It is still crazy to think that I started all the way up in Maine. It was hard to believe but at the same time Georgia felt like a victory lap. The trail was smooth and rather easy, I caught up with several hikers at a final hostel stay, and had one final, rocky climb up Blood Mountain. The shelter logbook atop Blood Mountain started to have some farewell messages as it started to sink in. Tomorrow is Springer Mountain. Almost there – Green Bag

The branding reverses direction in the south

Lazy Hiker Brewing Company in Franklin, NC

America’s Most Visited Park

When I tell people I’m hiking the Appalachian Trail southbound I typically get one of two responses. One is a pause, in deep thought, considering whether it is going to be warm or cold in the south. The answer is cold. The other response is a quick, “I hope you don’t freeze in the Smokies!” The Great Smoky Mountains are the last big mountains and final hurdle for SOBOs. While the nights were chilly, around 20 degrees, the day time weather was sunny helping to cut the bite of the frosty air above 5000 feet.

After the long climb into the Smokies, the Mount Cammerer Firetower was a treat. It wasn’t just the beautiful sunset and sunrise but also an escape from the wind for a night. Waking up and starting to walk through the Smokies was like a whole new world. The flora in the Smokies is quite unique and beautiful, especially in the section north of Clingmans Dome on the AT. The pine forests with lush mosses were a nice change from the deciduous forests so common along the trail. The coolest part being the final climb up to Clingman’s Dome. The highest point on the AT is heavily trafficked by tourists much like Mount Washington in New Hampshire but this time with just a road rather than a train as well. I do recommend the observation tower for the views. It provided sweeping views of the wilderness and the first glimpse of Fontana Dam where the AT exits the park to the southwest.

The next morning we awoke to a dusting of snow and howling winds. It was quite beautiful on the mountaintops. Luckily after a couple hours the weather started to warm up, and the skies cleared. Ice was still quite persistent at times, a reminder I lucked out with good weather overall. The sunshine provided great views, my favorite coming from the Shuckstack Firetower. It was neat to hike through the Smokies without leaves on the trees making the expansive blue hued views more frequent. I am looking forward to returning sometime with the leaves on the trees though. The Smokies were serene and void of people along the AT, ironic for America’s most visited park. I’m looking forward to my next trip.

After four days of big miles and climbing I found myself down at Fontana Dam. It was peaceful crossing it at night as I arrived at the Fontana Hilton. No, not a hotel, but a shelter right on the lake that might have views better than any real Hilton. A clean, well built shelter with a heated bathroom and shower nearby is basically a fancy hotel to thru hikers. Waking up to sunrise over the lake was the perfect end to the Great Smoky Mountains. With the last big test complete, all eyes are set on Georgia. Here we come – Green Bag

Welcome the Smoky Mountains at Davenport Gap Shelter (the fence is to keep bears out)

View on the climb into the park from Davenport Gap

High elevation makes for frosty vegetation

Sunset from the Mount Cammerer Firetower

I knew it would be cold but didn’t expect icicles

The “Smoky” Mountains certainly did not disappoint

View of Fontana Dam from Shuckstack Firetower

Morning view from the Fontana Hilton Shelter

Hiker Thanksgiving

Thanksgiving is a favorite holiday of mine. Eating copious amounts of food is, well, a pastime of sorts and getting to see my entire family on the same day is a treat. What could be better?

Originally I set Thanksgiving as a target date to complete the trail by. It was a reasonable goal until I lost a week and a half off trail letting my feet heal up. By Thanksgiving I had made it to Hot Springs, NC, less than 300 hundred miles from Springer Mountain, GA. Going all the way home and back would have been a few more days lost and delayed entry into the Smoky Mountains as the weather got colder, so I decided to stay on trail.

Conveniently, Hiker Thanksgiving was happening in Hot Springs this year. Every year trail angels led by Miss Janet come together to prepare a Thanksgiving feast fit for hiker hunger. They also shuttle in southbound thru hikers still on trail for the festivities. It takes an army to coordinate it all and is a generous undertaking. While it wasn’t quite the family Thanksgiving company I’m used to, it certainly felt like a reunion. It was cool to catch up with hikers behind or in front of me on trail some of who I didn’t expect to see again. It was a beautifully sunny day perfect for relaxing and participating in the other fun activities including a pie eating contest and hiker karaoke. What a pleasant send-off it was for us SOBOs as we hit the homestretch. This journey has been a blessing, and there is certainly much to be thankful for. Grateful – Green Bag

A great hostel and event location for Hiker Thanksgiving

I hadn’t seen Onward since the hundred mile wilderness way back in Maine

I’ll spare you the audio from my hiker karaoke rendition of Country Roads by John Denver

Follow Me to Tennessee

Shortly after leaving Damascus it was on to northeast Tennessee. My first night out came with the first dusting of snow I have experienced on trail. While chilly, it was beautiful. It created a stark contrast of snowy, frosted trees above the still fall colored shoreline of Watauga Lake and Dam. Watauga Lake and nearby Laurel Creek Falls provided picturesque water scenery that has been notably absent for much of Virginia with the exception of a some river crossings. The highlight of northeast Tennessee for me was definitely the sunsets. I can’t say I’ve ever seen sunsets so vibrant. They are surreal.

There are quite a few other landmarks along the way. North Carolina wasn’t far off as the trail starts to crisscross the TN/NC border. Hump Mountain was a nice taste of grassy balds to come, and Roan Mountain is the location of the highest shelter on the AT at 6270 feet. We checked out the shelter but didn’t stay. It would have been quite cold. Crossing Big Bald on a frosty morning was the highlight of the stretch. In front were frosty trees and shrubbery, to the east a beautiful sunrise, and to the west a full moon setting in a rainbow sky. I will say the views from Max Patch certainly did not disappoint as well. It’s a spot I want to go back to for sunset and sunrise once camping in the area is allowed again. That leaves the Great Smoky Mountains on deck. Staying warm- Green Bag

Starting the morning from Iron Mountain Shelter

Watauga Lake with snowy mountaintops in the background

Sunset on the way into Roan Mountain, TN

First official steps into North Carolina

Looking back at Hump Mountain from Little Hump

French Broad River outside of Hot Springs, NC

Just one of the spectacular views from Max Patch

On the Road to Damascus

The last big stretch in Virginia was from Pearisburg to Damascus. My good friend Beast who thru hiked in 2018 joined me for the 167 mile stretch. More to come on his section in the next trail visitors post. Fall was in peak swing, both in the color of the leaves and the cold weather that arrived. There were a few chilly nights. One night in particular dropped to at least 24 degrees, maybe lower, on Chestnut Knob. The old fire warden’s cabin helped cut some of the chill, and we awoke to a scenic frosty, sunrise. Once the feet get moving the cold isn’t so bad. I better get used to it with the Smokey Mountains looming.

The highlight of the stretch was the Grayson Highlands. Meadows roughly 5000 feet high with neat rock formations and pine trees mixed in made for a unique landscape. The fall colors were still present and we were lucky to hit the highlands nearing sunset. The rainbow sky with expansive views on a clear, warm evening was a bonus. Of course, we saw the famous wild ponies as well. The wild ponies were plentiful and rather friendly if they sensed any chance of yogiing food. They aren’t truly wild as they are fenced in, but they were a cool novelty. We also took the side trail to Mt. Rogers, the high point in Virginia. There was not a view but being up in a pine forest was a neat change. From there it was mostly downhill on the way into Damascus.

Damascus is a trail town in the southwest Corner of Virginia just four miles north of the Tennessee border by the Appalachian Trail. The Virginia Creeper rail to trail also passes through town making it a bustling spot for outdoor enthusiasts. I did the typical chores and of course loaded up on food during my enjoyable, restful zero day before Beast left for home. I also did some looking and planning ahead. Damascus marks the end of Virginia, the longest state of the trail. Springer Mountain is 470 miles from Damascus by trail. That makes it roughly one month away. Getting closer – Green Bag

Beast and me at the three-quarter marker outside of Atkins, VA

Jimmy gave us a ride in his cool van near Troutdale to resupply

No sign at the 500 miles from Springer mark

Not exactly Mahoosuc Notch, but the “Fatman Squeeze” was a reminder

The Virginia Creeper trail which the AT shares for a mile or so

Trail Visitors Part 2

Rich joined for the final 28 miles of trail in Shenandoah National Park from Loft Mountain to the southern entrance station outside of Waynesboro, VA. The combination of his name and the rainy weather he brought along quickly got him his trail name Rainmaker. Thankfully the rain subsided after a few hours. The wind continued and made for tricky stealth camping but we managed. With the rain, some rocky trail, and a night at Stanimals 328 hostel in Waynesboro, Rainmaker got the full AT experience.

Gurk made a visit before heading to Germany for a new work assignment. We took a day off together to reminisce and celebrate. He’ll try to tell you he also hiked the AT. Technically he’s right, and so I’m including him here. He walked all of about 100 feet of the trail as we slacked some food and beer ahead. Much appreciated still and a good send off.

Shane made a return trip to the AT all the way from Jackson, Wyoming after his successful NOBO thru hike in 2018. He of course already had a trail name, Beast, from his hike. The name and reputation continue to be more than warranted. He joined for the 167 mile section from Pearisburg, VA to Damascus, VA which we completed in ten days. It included multiple twenty mile days which he swore he would never do again on the AT at one point near the end of his thru hike. Twenties can be a lot for current thru hikers let alone someone without trail legs. He gutted them out though. Having Beast along for an extended section was fun and a boost to ward off a speck of Virginia blues that started to creep in as the nights became chilly. Some gorgeous weather followed though. Hitting the Grayson Highlands on a calm, sunny evening was a treat. It was quite the contrast from the wind and ice Beast experienced there in 2018. We enjoyed a much deserved zero in Damascus together before parting ways. Maybe it won’t be long before you hear he is back thru hiking on the PCT or CDT! Hanging out – Green Bag

Kicking it at Stanimals 328 Hostel in Waynesboro, VA

He did have to walk 1000 feet to get to the AT as well. Got to give credit where it’s due

The wild ponies liked Beast (mostly his snacks and vitamin I)

Observing the sunny evening in the Grayson Highlands

A rare campfire courtesy of Beast on his last night on trail

Landmarks in Virginia

On the way into Daleville, VA I passed the two-thirds sign. There wasn’t much fanfare there between highways but an evening eating Mexican food in town with a small bubble of SOBOs was a nice toast. A couple days later we hit 1500 miles and stopped to make a fall leave marker. We’re getting closer.

We had a beautiful day out of Daleville. It was breezy but sunny, a perfect day for Tinker Cliffs and McAfee Knob. McAfee Knob gets all the hype. I understand why. It’s a cool photo opportunity, but the actual view isn’t all that great. I obliged however, and our group took turns posing on the rock. The view from the less traveled Tinker Cliffs a few miles north is much more spectacular and absolutely worth a visit.

The next day we hiked up and past Dragon’s Tooth. It was a steep climb that worked the leg muscles in ways not used since the Whites. That was a fun change. The tooth itself wasn’t all that special. Maybe on a clearer day the rock combined with a view would be cool especially if you climbed the tooth. I opted not to do that.

I’m now over halfway through Virginia with no blues yet, a good omen. The fall colors are still in full swing, and the weather hasn’t been too cold just yet. After hitting these Virginia landmarks, I’m looking ahead to the Grayson Highlands. We’ll see if the ponies will still be out as the weather gets colder. Moving ahead – Green Bag

A McAfee Knob shot for the Instagram I don’t have

View near Rice Field Shelter outside of Pearisburg, VA

Keefer Oak, the largest Oak Tree along the AT in the south ~ 300 years old

Blue Ridge

I thoroughly enjoyed the Shenandoahs, even more than I had anticipated I would. I didn’t know what to expect next as I have never hiked south of Shenandoah National Park on the east coast. The next stretch of trail was from Waynesboro, VA across the James River and into the stretch where the trail winds near the Blue Ridge Parkway. The terrain wasn’t quite as smooth as in the Shennys and, the climbs were steeper, especially the Priest. The Priest is the first four thousand footer for SOBOs since Killington in Vermont (or as far back as Moosilauke in New Hampshire for those who didn’t take the Killington blue blaze). The Priest is better known amongst thru hikers for the infamous logbook at the Priest Shelter. In this logbook thru hikers confess their trail sins. For example, not knowing or caring how far off trail is the recommended distance for pooping. I’m not naming names here. Anyway, you can imagine some of the confessions but others you just couldn’t make up if you tried. It’s a worthy read if you’re in the area.

This section of trail has certainly been one for scenic views. The view from the grassy bald on Cole Mountain might just make my top five so far. The view was nearly 360 degrees, and the fall foliage was starting to get towards peak especially in the higher elevations. The grassy bald stretched on for about a half mile of walking. This kind of terrain and view is a favorite of mine. From what I hear there’s more of that to come further south. I crossed the James River near Glasgow, VA on the longest footbridge on the AT, nearly 1000 feet long. It was a bright, sunny day. I took my time and enjoyed a beer section hikers starting off their trip offered me. The trail on the other side over the river paralleling the Blue Ridge Parkway was splendid. It was similar to Shenandoah National Park but with less crowds and more expansive views. I’m absolutely looking forward to hiking through the south. Down I go – Green Bag

The Tye River in the Three Ridges Wilderness

Enjoying the view from the James River Footbridge

Black Rock Overlook in the James River Face Wilderness

Fall has arrived

Fun In The Shennys

After hitting Harpers Ferry it was only 50 short miles through West Virginia and northern Virginia to get to the town of Front Royal at the northern end of the Shenandoahs. I had been looking forward to Shenandoah National Park for awhile. Shenandoah was where I did my first ever backpacking weekend several years ago, so it was a neat homecoming of sorts. This time around I was especially anticipating the fall foliage. Oh, and of course, waysides stocked with milkshakes, burgers, and beer were prominent in my mind as well.

The waysides were amazing. They exceeded my hiker hunger-sized expectations. How great is it to stumble off the trail nearly everyday at lunchtime and be able to eat two cheeseburgers and a hot ham and cheese sandwich or a fried chicken dinner and pulled pork sandwich then wash it all down with beer and a legendary blackberry milkshake? It gets better though. Burgers and beer can packed out for later. I ate and drank very well that week.

The terrain in the park was a welcomed change. While Virginia continues to be most definitely not flat (unlike what is commonly said), the trail in the Shennys is rather smooth. There were hardly any rocks or obstacles making long days rather leisurely for the 100+ miles through the park.

There were many scenic view points in the park. My personal favorite was Hightop Mountain although the sunset from the Bearfence Overlook was great as well. The fall foliage hadn’t quite hit yet, however at high elevations in the park the leaves were starting to turn. The contrast of the fall colors up top with the lush, green forest below was pretty and the first taste of fall. While it wasn’t the peak foliage I had hoped for, the colors are coming as I head south towards the Blue Ridge Parkway area of the trail. Still eating – Green Bag

The most definitely not flat portion of northern Virginia

The launch point of my first ever weekend backpacking trip

Halfway There

I left Boiling Springs after a lovely day off with my parents’ heading for Pine Grove Furnace State Park. It is close to the official halfway point of the trail which moves slightly each year due to trail maintenance and reroutes. Pine Grove Furnace is also home to the half gallon challenge during which hikers attempt to consume a half gallon of ice cream as fast as they can to celebrate hitting the halfway point of the trail. This is my kind of challenge. Sadly, the general store in the park is closed weekdays after Labor Day but fear not, there is an alternative. Thus, I hit the Green Mountain General Store around 11am and immediately went in for cookies and cream (flavors were limited). I started out slow as the ice cream was firm and cold. I was enjoying the ice cream. While I wasn’t inhaling it, I was still trying to make relatively quick work of it. Therefore I was chewing the still rather frozen, hard ice cream which was a weird sensation. I continued on taking bigger spoonfuls powering through the 1.5 quart container. It seemed like I was going slow. Fellow thru hiker Splash completed his challenge in 19 minutes and 22 seconds so I wanted to beat that, but it wasn’t looking good. It took 14 minutes and 10 seconds to complete the 1.5 quart tub. Next moving on to the pint. The ice cream in the pint had softened up a bit as it was an uncharacteristically hot and humid October day. I did indeed inhale the pint to arrive at a final time of 17 minutes and 51 seconds. At no point did I get brain freeze but my tongue had a temporary freezer burn. Pro tip for future thru-hikers – don’t use a metal spoon. Absolutely utilize a spork though. Being able to cut into hard ice cream while simultaneously scooping was efficient and a big time saver. I assert I’ve found the best use case for a spork. All in all it was fun, and I was proud of my performance, but I could have done better. If there is a next time, I’m 100% going sub 15 minutes. Oh, and by the way, I washed it down with a full Reuben sandwich from the deli twenty minutes later. Hiker hiker is real.

Another halfway landmark is Harpers Ferry, WV. While it is quite a ways from the actual halfway point, it is a nice town with a lot of history that stays in the same place from year to year. Harpers Ferry is said to be the unofficial or spiritual halfway point of the trail. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy is also headquartered there. After crossing the Potomac and heading towards the ATC headquarters I did some reflecting. It was bittersweet realizing the adventure is halfway over. It took me quite awhile to get to this point. 119 days to be exact. While it was exciting to hit halfway, I couldn’t help but be a little sad that the adventure will be over before I know it. The second half of the trail could realistically be completed in half the number of days it took me to complete the first half if all goes well. A second thought I had was I’ve gone all this way, and yet I still do not know what Springer Mountain looks like. It goes to show that it is not all about the destination but rather the journey. How disappointing it would be to reach Springer and not feel fulfilled. Every mile is the destination, and the experiences along the way are the true reward. Living on a prayer – Green Bag

My card checking in at the ATC headquarters in Harpers Ferry

Trail Visitors

Several family and friends have met up with me on trail to do a some hiking. It is always fun to catch up and enjoy their company to break up the sometimes monotonous grind of hiking mostly alone everyday. Likewise, it’s motivation and something to look forward to in the days ahead of meeting up. Thank you to everyone who has joined so far!

Yoandi, Amanda, and Ellie met up in Pawling, NY for a day hike. It was a little muddy but a beautiful day for hiking. We hiked to the Telephone Pioneers Shelter for lunch. Ellie enjoyed snack time and playing on the rocks. I’d say she’s ready to thru-hike the AT!

Matt and Chris joined for an exciting weekend section in NY. We crossed the Hudson River on 9/11 as Apache helicopters flew by. Then came the trail side zoo and Bear Mountain before a nighttime view of the NYC skyline. Matt quickly earned the trail name “Rocketman” as his sleeping bag attached to his pack looked like a crazy rocket launcher. It was Chris’s second time hiking a section with me. After no trail name sticking during the first section, now he is known as “Toasty” as he roasted a sub he had packed out over the campfire. Toasted Danny’s always hit the spot.

Gilbert and Lee joined up for a weekend in Pennsylvania. Gilbert has always been known for having an extremely large pack. For this affair he decided to one up it. He added 2 four packs of beer, one hanging off each side of his pack to earn the trail name “Pounder”. Lee, meanwhile, had a luxury item of his own. He decided to glamp up the otherwise bland thru hiking stealth camp spot with battery pack powered Christmas lights earning the trail name “Lightshow.” They endured several miles of classic Pennsylvania rocks before a relaxing night around the campfire with plenty of beer and lighting.

In central Pennsylvania I got extra special trail visitors, Mom and Dad. It was great to see them after a thousand miles of trail. They met me at a trailhead with trail magic. A handful of fellow SOBOs and myself thoroughly enjoyed the beer and home cooked food they brought, a real treat as trail magic is sparse for SOBOs.

The next day Dad met me for lunch at the Doyle, the trail famous bar/hotel in Duncannon, PA. He had been looking forward to enjoying a beer with me there for quite awhile. The Doyle was its lively, colorful self with a handful of current thru hikers and former thru hiker locals telling old trail stories and jokes. They even had Dad’s favorite house beer on draft, Lord Chesterfield Ale. After showing up on back to back days Dad has been given a trail name, Bag Dad. Green Bag and Bag Dad having a beer at the Doyle is a moment we’ll both always cherish. Blessed – Green Bag

Bag Dad and Green Bag at the Doyle (photo credit Stealthwalker)

Rocksylvania

I was thrilled to enter my home state of Pennsylvania. Lots of hikers rag on Pennsylvania. I can understand why. The terrain is quite rocky, a nuisance for hikers that would like to be moving fast along the ridge tops. There is also a noticeable sound of highways along the trail. It made no difference to me. The rocks, just like everything else, were not as bad as the fearmongers said. I assume being southbound helps with the perspective. Instead of stepping around mud and roots up north, it’s rocks now.

I often say I wish the trail went vertically through the remote areas in the center of Pennsylvania much like the Mid State Trail does. I must say I appreciated the unique views of the Appalachian Trail through Pennsylvania compared to the rest of the AT and mountain views found elsewhere in PA. The vast rolling hills and farmland were scenic. It was a taste of home that despite coming back for holidays, has been several years since I have last truly experienced it. Even with the rocks the walking was much easier once on the ridge tops that traverse the eastern part of the state. Of course there were some rocks to navigate. The most notorious section for me was the descent into Lehigh Gap. It was reminiscent of southern Maine and the Whites albeit with tanner rocks.

Another highlight of walking through Pennsylvania was getting to see and spend time with family and friends who graciously hosted me. A hearty meal and a bed to sleep in did wonders for my body and morale. It came at a time when I had just popped a hole in my sleeping pad and was in the middle of over a week long stretch where I didn’t see any fellow SOBOs. Thank you Jen and Eric, Opa and Susan, and John and Kris! Rock hopping – Green Bag

Some of the rocks heading into Lehigh Gap

1000 miles down and over 1000 more to go

Rhododendrons have been more common along the trail in PA

New Jersey

After all the interesting things I came across in New York, I was intrigued what New Jersey would have to offer. I started out with some of the same rocks as in New York. No big deal. Then came the mosquitoes… My first full day in New Jersey consisted of 21 miles of practically running from mosquitoes. I certainly went no less than 3 miles per hour in attempted evasion. Clouds of mosquitoes. You’re thinking you’ve experienced bad mosquitoes before, but I can assure you haven’t. Multiple species, some kamikazee style, swarming and flying fast. Yes, tiger mosquitoes are as vicious as they sound. I tried not to stop for anything except water when absolutely necessary. I gave in and put on full rain gear and just accepted the sweat on an 85 degree, humid day rather than get so many bites. I did pass by some neat scenery though. There was a bird sanctuary, though I didn’t realize this designation at the time, that was a wide open marsh with plant life starting to change to fall colors already. It was a nice break from the green tunnel. The saving grace of the day was the “Secret” Shelter, a private cabin the owner lets thru-hikers use. Oh, and how could I forget Jake the donkey who one might call the actual caretaker. Anyway, the Secret Shelter was a much appreciated reprieve from mosquitoes and the wicked thunderstorms that night.

Next up was High Point State Park and the NJ Highpoint Monument. I wasn’t expecting a 220 foot tall obelisk along the trail, but there it was. It was kind of spectacular, but at the same time with an elevation of only 1798 feet, rather unspectacular. I did enjoy a view of it and the surrounding valleys from an observation deck a quarter mile away. The mosquitoes were briefly gone, and although they returned, they weren’t as bad as before.

The last stop in New Jersey was Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area on the way towards Pennsylvania. I had driven through several times over the years on I-80 and always thought it would neat to hike the cliffs above. I finally got my opportunity. There were 25 miles of ridge walking with nice views especially from fire towers. I would highly recommend camping and getting sunrise/sunset views. Despite some rocks it was quite pleasant. I would love to go back. It would make a good weekend trip especially in the fall when the leaves change or winter when the views would be more abundant. On this occasion my timing bonus was coming through during peak raptor migration season. Multiple broad-winged hawks were flew overhead Raccoon Ridge.

Before long I was headed across the I-80 bridge over the Delaware River and stepped into my home state of Pennsylvania. It’ll be great to be near family and friends while closing in on the halfway point of the AT. I have my sights set on the half gallon challenge in Pine Grove Furnace State Park. There’s still a couple hundred miles of Pennsylvania to walk first. On I go – Green Bag

New Jersey Highpoint Monument, 220 feet tall

View of the Highpoint Monument from afar

A pleasant ridge walk through Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area

View of the Delaware River from Raccoon Ridge

Deli Blazing Rankings

I’ve mentioned deli blazing multiple times already so you probably can feel my excitement. I think this is possibly my longest post. Fittingly, it’s probably proportional to the amount of time I spend thinking about food each day. Well, fantasizing about food may be more accurate. In the mid-Atlantic the fantasy becomes reality. Nearly everyday there’s an option to eat and pack out good food if you’re willing to go a bit out of the way. I certainly was more than willing. Without further ado, my Appalachian Trail deli blazing rankings. Savoring – Green Bag

1. Tony’s Deli, Pawling, NY: Located outside of Pawling a half mile from the Appalachian Trail Metro-North stop on NY-22 it takes the top spot. They even have a specific hiker menu. It’s jam packed with mega calorie options. I was too excited to take a picture. I went for the Bear Mountain Burger which was enormous even before mozzarella sticks were added. I packed out a Twenty Mile A Day breakfast sandwich with the most bacon I’ve ever seen on a sandwich. There was a hash brown inside it too. I should have packed out more from here in addition to my Italian combo. Next time I may take advantage of the $2 tenting in their yard, but then again, if I do that I may never leave.

2. Appalachian Market and Deli, Garrison, NY: It is located directly on the trail on US-9 and is open 24-7. I visited this deli three days in a row since I took a zero at the Graymoor Spiritual Life Center conveniently located one mile up the hill. The deli is always busy and has that NYC bustle feel to it. I got a double 1/3 pound burger (yes, 2/3 lbs total), a few awesome heros, and a western omelette that was killer.

3. LaBonne’s Market, Salisbury, CT: This is a small grocery store that includes a deli. The Texas Zinger was jam packed with beef and had a kick to it. They have a hot food bar as well and just about any kind of macaroni salad-type sides you could want.

4. Goucheberg Farms Market and Deli, Clarendon, VT: This was my first stop on the deli blaze. It set a high bar. The Kerwin is a hiker favorite. Beef, bacon, and chipotle mayo made a great combination. It was to die for.

5. Mountaintop Market Inc, Storyville, NY: I nearly had a heart attack when I saw a closed sign on the door after walking a half mile downhill off trail on NY-52. It turns out the conjoined pizza shop is not affiliated with the deli so crisis averted. It was a standard deli with friendly staff. They sliced the meat right in front of you, prices were good, and tasty rolls. They do get a knock for being out of roast beef and pastrami, but I still enjoyed an Italian combo, spicey chicken, and deli combo. They were shocked when I came back in for a third sub not realizing I planned to pack it out.

6. Bulls Bridge Country Store, Bulls Bridge, CT: It wasn’t really a deli but more of a convenience store. Their subs were prepackaged from a nearby deli. However, they had frozen Indian food that was restaurant quality and a microwave to heat it up. I had a couple favorites, bhindi and chana masala, and took a sub to go. I also got some Punjabi Mix as a savory snack rather than the usual salty stuff. The staff was super nice and the most hiker friendly of all my recent stops. They have everything under the sun in the store as evidenced by the paraphernalia in the window. This is easily my favorite store on trail, but it’s not a deli. That’s the only thing lacking.

7. Horler’s Country Store, Unionville, NY. Standard deli and convenience store. I enjoyed my Italian and pastrami heros, and they offered to wrap them up well for packing out. For whatever reason they weren’t doing hot sandwiches at the time which was disappointing. It was still worth a stop. It always is.

8. Cozzy’s Pizzeria, Kent, CT: It’s really a pizza shop and not a deli. Plus, it wasn’t my primary reason for going into Kent. Still, I figure I’d put it on the list as I did enjoy my meatball sub. It hit the spot. Don’t get me wrong. It just lacked wow factor.

Places I didn’t stop:

⁃ Pomfret, VT: I passed up my first deli blazing opportunity at Teago’s General Store while trying to make miles. Rookie mistake…

⁃ Cornwall Bridge, NY: Cornwall Country Market – It just didn’t line up with my mileage.

⁃ Falls Village, CT: Toy Makers Cafe or Mounside Cafe – I did try to go to the Mountainside Cafe before heading off trail but they unexpectedly closed for a Sunday. It seemed popular though. In about half an hour a dozen cars stopped by with the same idea as me.

⁃ Greenwood Lake, NY – I spent a day in Greenwood Lake but delis weren’t on the agenda. Big thanks to Keith for taking me in for two nights for a restful zero!

⁃ Culver’s Inlet, NJ: I plan to stop at the Sandwich Lobby. I just haven’t made it there yet. One more to look forward to!

Ironies of New York

I had heard a little bit about the trail in New York but not a lot. NOBOs have long disappeared in their quest to summit Katahdin before winter. When I had met them previously the only things they had to say about New York were about delis and the Warwick Theatre. Despite that, there was a lot to see in the eighty or so miles of New York, especially the ironies and juxtapositions.

I had heard that some hikers take the train into NYC from Pawling, NY. While I wasn’t surprised by this, I didn’t expect to come across a specific Appalachian Trail stop directly on the trail. As a lover of trains I did appreciate this but I did not go for a ride.

I had stopped at closed and empty Canopus Beach Lake. The serenity there a day prior was quite the opposite of Bear Mountain Recreation area bustling with cookouts and music. Oh, and after ascending all the way to the top of Bear Mountain by foot it was funny to see tough looking guys on Harley’s blasting Mr. New Booty near the summit. I guess New York City really is close by after all. The other side of Bear Mountain was rather quiet and void of people. Speaking of NYC, we could see the lit up skyline from our camp spot on the ridge opposite Bear Mountain. I appreciated NYC more from far away.

The trail goes directly through a zoo near Bear Mountain also. I found it ironic they had bears in captivity by Bear Mountain, and this was the only animal I saw while walking through the zoo. There are still wild bears in the Bear Mountain area, but we didn’t see any of those.

A Telephone of the Wind was placed on the trail to connect with love ones lost. While I understand the concept, it just seemed out of place. The trail also crosses numerous highways. Of course the best view of the Catskills came right from the highway. It’s a shame the trail doesn’t go through the Catskills and away from the busy metro area highways. I guess the Catskills aren’t part of the Appalachian Mountain Range though.

Even with all the oddities the trail in NY is beautiful and rugged at times. Some of the rocks are a bit reminiscent of Maine and the White Mountains but on a smaller scale. There are some tucked away lakes and ponds and armies of relentless mosquitoes to go with them. Off I go into New Jersey. We’ll see what it has to offer. Hiking – Green Bag

Appalachian Trail Metro-North Stop outside Pawling

Perkins Memorial Tower at the summit of Bear Mountain. I cut out the Harley’s from view

NYC skyline from Black Mountain – more clear in person

Same spot as the view of NYC from Black Mountain

The official white blaze is indeed through the zoo

Telephone of the Wind in Fahnestock State Park

I can confirm this is New York and not Maine

Trail Food

When I’m hiking I spend a lot of time thinking about, or scheming, what I’m going to eat next. After some thought, maybe this isn’t any different than normal life. The conundrums are a bit different though. Some of you have asked, and waited patiently, to hear what I eat on the trail so here you have it.

The simplest answer is I eat like a poor college student who grocery shops at a convenience store. Granola bars, junk food snacks, and ramen noodles. Occasionally I get to splurge for copious amounts of pizza or a sandwich. Did you know you it’s possible to eat whatever you want and as much of it as you can everyday and still lose weight? It’s the secret diet people have actually keep quite secret. It’s called the thru hiker diet. All you have to do is walk 15+ miles everyday.

I do have several go to items that account for most of my meals. My standard breakfast is a Clif bar and, if it’s available, a Breakfast Essential in water. Lunch could be just snacks, a tortilla with a protein, and maybe mashed potatoes. Dinner is either ramen noodles or mashed potatoes with a protein added in. Typically the protein is tuna because of its high protein and caloric content depending on the flavor, in sunflower oil is the best. Keep in mind I sent my stove home hundreds of miles ago so for me “cooking” is cold soaking instant mash or ramen in a plastic bag and eating it out of that. Sound appetizing? Believe me, after a long day it truly hits the spot.

I’m slowly moving my way through upstate NY as my feet adjust to my new shoes. Speaking of NY and food, it’s known for deli blazing. More to come – Green Bag

Representative collection of snacks from a short term resupply

Cheap ramen is great. Knock off instant mashed potatoes not so great. Idahoan or bust. We can still be foodies out here

Classic tuna, my favorite chicken for wraps, and the elusive but tasty spam single

While popular for weekenders, no actual thru hikers eat these. They’re too expensive and take up a lot of space. They are tasty though.

Canopus beach in Fahnestock State Park. The beach closes after Labor Day but more importantly so does the snack bar

Back At It

After a few more days at home my feet almost entirely healed up and were ready to go. I decided it was best to wait until the remnants of Hurricane Ida passed through before heading back to the trail to hike. In the meantime though I couldn’t stay away. With one of the extra days I visited the trail at a road crossing in Pennsylvania. I did a small trail magic consisting of beer, Gatorade, and fruit for a few southbound thru hikers, two of which I hiked with in Maine and haven’t seen since as they breezed ahead. It was great to catch up with them and be in the trail environment for a day.

In an effort to let my feet breathe more I’m transitioning to trail runners. It was hard to give up the style of boots which have done me so well for 700 miles and years before. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it, right? Well, my feet may not be quite broke, but I do have a problem to fix. I opted to stay with Merrell’s and a similar heel drop. I sound like I know what I’m talking about but truthfully I had never heard of heel to toe drop before thru hiking. It’s the difference in cushioning between the heel and the toe of a shoe, typically listed in millimeters. Mine are now 10mm. I also got lighter socks to help reduce sweat as well as some biodegradable soap to wash my feet and socks with.

After a week and a half it is good to be back on trail. It was great to spend time with my parents who helped me out immensely, but I’m ready to roll. The weather is great, and the fresh air of western Connecticut is rejuvenating. Back at it – Green Bag

My old Merrell Moab Mid 2 Waterproof boots. Great for day hiking and short trips but not so great for thru hiking unfortunately

Merrell Moab Flight trail runners and Darn Tough Cool Max socks

Incident Report

When Chris was sectioning hiking with me we talked about all the normal thru hiking topics, gear, food, fitness, etc. At one point I made a comment about how some of the NOBOs have nasty feet and mine so far weren’t like that. I think that’s when the problems started. I should have knocked on wood. There’s a lot of it in the forest after all.

All was going well as I was heading through Massachusetts. I got my new boots broken in, I was averaging 17 miles a day, I could feel my trail legs developing, and I was settling in with a tramily. My outer toes started to get a little red and I had an irritated heel but it seemed like nothing some Leukotape couldn’t handle. Well, before long my toes were swollen and a rash was developing on my heel. As word spread Hurricane Henri was coming for Connecticut in a couple of days, I was generously offered the chance to stay at friends’ off trail. Thanks Yoandi and Amanda! Until then, I got some extra medical supplies and continued on with the plan to take a day off to recoup and shop for new, more breathable shoes while the storm came through. By the time the storm arrived and I got picked up my feet had gotten worse. The rash was spreading, blisters were oozing, and my ankles were swollen. It was clear I needed to take some time off and get them checked out.

I didn’t expect this trip to have a detour to New York City but it was necessary to catch a train home to my parent’s house. So there I was slowly strolling by Times Square with knock-off crocs, ripped pants, a ripped sleeveless shirt, a wild beard, and a big, dirty backpack. No one openly mistook me for a homeless person but I definitely got some funny looks.

At urgent care before the doctor even sat down upon waking in the room, she diagnosed my feet as infected. I was prescribed an antibiotic and told to take at least a week off. On the way home I thought, maybe this won’t be so bad. I can eat at a different buffet everyday, put some weight I finally started to lose back on, and check out some local breweries. It turns out the antibiotic has given me a stomach bug and I haven’t eaten or drinken much of anything over the last five days. And so I sit staring at my slowly improving feet like watching paint dry but worse. I’ve been reading A Walk in the Woods by Bill Bryson which has provided entertainment. Although, it’s also a warning not to let my hike turn out like Bryson’s and Katz’s. Not that there’s anything wrong with how they hiked their own hike, but then again, you might know what they say about Bill Bryson…

Anyway, given I was still thoroughly enjoying hiking and starting to get in a groove, having to take time off is disappointing. It’s all part of the journey though. I’ll file it as a learning experience and be sure to take better care of my feet moving forward. Waiting patiently – Green Bag

Veal (hiding) and Rally (right) assessing their Hurricane Henri shelter option (they found it suitable)

Tried to figure out what Guthook map to use here. Failed, but I found my way

I found this amusing because so many hikers carry crocs (mine are knock-off brand). Something tells me we aren’t the clientele they are going for at this location

I know you’re curious… I’ll spare you the worst photos though

Green Tunnel

After the first 500 miles the challenge seems to flip from 80% physical – 20% mental to 20% physical and 80% mental. For NOBOs this comes in the form of the “Virginia Blues”. The 550 miles in Virginia are the most in any state. It takes about a month to complete Virginia. After an exciting start to the journey, the long walk through Virginia is said to break a lot of NOBO’s spirits.

The equivalent for SOBOs would be the “green tunnel” of Massachusetts and Connecticut. They come after the initial excitement from Maine and the spectacular views of the White Mountains. The green tunnel is mostly tree covered walking without a lot of views. While there are less views than previously, there are still plenty in my opinion. Mount Greylock has a 360 degree view from the Veterans Memorial Tower and Bear Mountain has a nice view of the surrounding valley. I welcomed the easier terrain of Massachusetts and began doing some longer mileage days. It was a bit of a grind but for the most part spirits were still relatively high. I enjoy walking. There were a lot of neat landmarks and stops along the way besides mountain views to offset the humidity and feet that we’re starting to get sore and swell.

There’s a higher prevalence of towns bringing opportunities for treats such as hoagies and ice cream. I stopped at the Cookie Lady for some fresh baked chocolate chip cookies right off the trail at her blueberry farm. Upper Goose Pond has a neat cabin although the inside was closed due to COVID. Field walks with wildflowers were a beautiful sight. Sages Ravine with a cool misty stream was a nice break from the heat and humidity above as we stumbled upon the Connecticut border before ascending Bear Mountain. There’s still much more to see along the way. Exploring – Green Bag

Veterans Memorial Tower at the summit of Mount Greylock

The Cookie Lady’s house at Blueberry Hill by the AT

Green Mountains

I mentioned in my last post I hit 580 miles which is nearing the end of the Appalachian Trail in Vermont heading southbound. The rest of the AT in Vermont in Green Mountain National Forest continued to impress. I got my first visitor on trail! Chris joined for the 40 mile section between Manchester and Bennington. It was awesome to have a friend along for a bit. I resisted the urge to give him the trail name “Twin” since he has the same backpack, tent, sleeping pad, and trekking poles as I do. Great minds think alike. What can I say? Chris crushed it, and we enjoyed a pool day with his wife Scotlynne and her family to relax.

The highlights of the section were the fire towers on Stratton Mountain and Glastenbury Mountain. First came Stratton Mountain, the tallest in Southern Vermont with a rich history. It was there James Taylor conceived the Long Trail which predated the conception of the Appalachian trail by Benton MacKaye. We hit the Glastenbury Mountain fire tower the next day which may have had an even better view than from Stratton’s. In between, the forest was lush with green scenery, plenty of streams, and a few ponds that make for great swimming holes. The weather was hot and humid but the shade and abundance of water kept it bearable.

For me Vermont ended with a beaver sighting and a beautiful sunset marking the end of another state. Vermont exceeded my expectations. It was tempting to flip up to the Canadian border and come back to the AT on the Long Trail. That will have to wait for another time though as I thought it best to focus on the AT for now in case unexpected challenges or delays popped up. Until then – Green Bag

Chris after completing his 40 mile section hike

Trail Lingo

I’ve made quite a few posts already. Several contain some terms that might not be familiar to the average reader. I generally try to explain them but there are quite a few. Some weren’t even familiar to me before starting the trail.

NOBO: Short for northbound thru hiker

SOBO: Short for southbound thru hiker

Flip Flopper: someone who thru hikes a trail completely but generally in halves in opposite directions (although there are no limitations on the number of flips) i.e. to start north from Harpers Ferry to Mount Katahdin then “flip” back to Harpers Ferry and finish at Springer Mountain going southbound (usually to get the best weather) or start in Georgia northbound and flip up to Katahdin once it becomes clear it would be too late to finish in Maine as winter sets in.

White blaze: The color blaze signifying the AT. It can be used a verb, “white blazing.” The Long Trail in Vermont which overlaps the AT for about 100 miles also uses white blazes.

Blue blaze: Signifies a side trail off of the AT. Used as a verb as well i.e. blue blazing to the viewpoint

Yellow blazing: Hitching a ride or taking a road rather than the trail.

Pink blazing: Guy chases girl on trail

Banana blazing: Girl chases guy on trail

Tramily: “trail family” – a group of hikers/friends who hike closely together and generally meet up to camp at the same area as one another each night

Bubble: a large group of hikers all in the same area heading the same direction. It can be somewhat mythical but you know it when it hits. i.e. “when the bubble hits it may be hard to find camping.” It has never been an issue

Trail Magic: Unexpected treat. Usually food but not always

Trail Angel: A generous, friend of the trail who helps hikers in various ways. Often provides trail magic. Anyone can be a trail angel whether they know it or not.

Privy: an outhouse, typically located near shelters/lean tos. The word privy itself wasn’t really in my vocabulary in this definition before the AT

Hitch: short for hitchhiking. Often used to get into or out of towns or businesses close to the trail

Guthook: a mobile app that is a map and guide for long distance hiking trails. Just about every thru hiker has it. Guthook (last name) is also a person who created the app

AWOL: a popular guidebook for the AT. I personally do not have it. Guthook has replaced it for many hikers

Vortex: To spend more time in a town than intended enjoying luxuries not available on the trail itself

Resupply: Simply to buy food for the next couple of days

Stealth: To camp at a “stealthy” spot. Usually they are not so stealthy but located at cool places like viewpoints and water sources that aren’t official campsites

Hiker legs: Somewhat ambiguous term referring to the condition of hikers legs that allows them to walk long distances with steep climbs and be rather unaffected physically. Hiker legs develop between 500 and 900 miles or so. I wouldn’t say I have mine at 580 miles.

Hiker hunger: Precisely what is sounds like. The incredible appetite developed by hikers with high metabolisms burning thousands of calories each day. We’ll eat just about anything and lots of it

Hiker midnight: Generally 9pm. Although as the days get shorter we go to bed earlier while on trail

Hiker trash: An endearing term to describe us stinky, smelly, gross hikers. We embrace it as a badge of honor

As I have been adding to the list I realized that there’s quite a lot of jargon. What am I forgetting? Let me know – Green Bag

Blue blazing to a nice viewpoint outside of Manchester, VT

The “bubble” is currently hitting the White Mountains

One of my favorite privies so far. Near the Thistle Hill shelter in Vermont just west of West Hartford, VT

Just Say Yes

What do you do when a man in an old short bus pulls out from the trailhead and says, “Want to ride the bus to the hostel? I have candy.” The answer is always yes, obviously. Program yourself to react the opposite of what you were taught as a kid.

The man in the bus wasn’t creepy or just anyone in fact, but Odie, a well known trail angel. Odie voluntarily runs the hiker yearbook. During hiking season he travels the trail in his bus giving hikers rides and advertising for the yearbook. The three others I was hiking with and I had just left Hanover, NH, crossed into Vermont, and were set to hike 10 miles or so after the road walk. Ultimately Odie’s excitement to take us to a rope swing on the White River and a generous offer to pay for our tenting at the hostel if we all went convinced us to ditch our hiking for the day. Before long we were chilling along the White River with a campfire and taking turns swinging off the rope and into the river. It was a spontaneous, exhilarating experience.

The next day when our mini vortex in Hanover was over we got back to hiking towards West Hartford. That is where everyone says you have to jump off the bridge. Yes, jump off the 30+ foot high bridge into the Connecticut River. Locals give instructions on how to navigate the jump safely. Say yes and trust them. Unfortunately, while I wanted to go for it I decided not to say yes to this one (for now) as it was raining with a flash flood watch. Your welcome, Mom. I’ll just have to go back another time.

The next day I arrived at the Lookout, a privately owned cabin open to hikers on top of a small mountain with an indoor wood stove, window screens, and a rooftop observation deck, quite the luxury out here. I intended to check out the view then hike a few more miles. With little arm twisting needed but also a much appreciated road soda from Road Soda himself, some NOBOs already on the rooftop convinced me to stay. It was well worth it for sunset, sunrise, a warm night in a cabin, and company from the “Dirty Bubble”.

What could the next day bring? How about staying with a borderline cult? That would be the Yellow Deli, a trail famous deli and donation-based or work for stay hiker hostel in Rutland. It’s run by a religious community of volunteers. Some call it a cult. Yes, they have vastly different views from me and likely you too but they were incredibly friendly, kind, and would do just about anything to help hikers or anyone for that matter. I had a great experience. For the record I did not go to the farm. I was intrigued though if I had an extra day.

Vermont has been a blast so far. The mud hasn’t been bad and as you gathered there have been some pleasant surprises. While there weren’t any surprises on day 5 in Vermont it did bring about Killington peak and 500 miles on trail, a cool milestone. Pushing forward – Green Bag

Fellow hiker Tarzan in his natural element swinging into the river

Zoomed in view at sunrise looking at what I believe is Mount Moosilauke and Franconia Ridge

White Mountains Overview

Before I knew it, I was on top of Mount Moosilauke and through the White Mountains. While hiking through Maine they seemed so far off. In a blink, they’re in the rearview mirror as I head towards Vermont.

The Whites were difficult but aren’t as tough as a lot of people say. There is a lot of fearmongering too. It’s not maliciously intended. Some of it is genuine concern. Yes, they are steep, and don’t get caught in a thunderstorm above tree line. There’s a business component to it also. Hey, you should totally slackpack this section using our hostel/shuttle service. For northbounders, they are the first big mountains in quite awhile with the exception of Killington. Naturally, that stokes excitement. All that makes for a lot of chatter about the Whites. I have to keep in mind my perspective as well which is fresh off of rugged southern Maine. Big mountains to respect, yes. Impossible struggle, no. Each challenge prepares you for the next.

For being so popular, I didn’t find the White Mountains to be overcrowded. I had heard of parking lots filling up early and crowded trails but I didn’t experience any of that (of course I haven’t driven anywhere in almost 2 months). 5pm to 9pm is a great time to be on trail in the summer in the Whites. Day hikers are returning home, AMC hut guests are eating dinner, and many thru hikers have already called it a day. I felt the most solitude during that stretch. It’s also a time where clouds seem to lift, and of course, the sun sets for amazing views.

Speaking of the AMC huts, they are an interesting twist. The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) has “huts” which are more like rustic lodges or even inns. They are located every ten miles or so through the White Mountains generally just below tree line. They have bunk houses and serve breakfast and dinner to guests who stay for a steep fee. If you can afford it, staying provides a good way to experience the White Mountains without having a lot of gear and carrying it all. A lot of thru hikers complain about the AMC (typically for reasons other than the huts), and I understand why. For me the AMC’s huts were useful and outweighed any AMC negatives. They were great for getting out of the elements for a few minutes, to dry off, to use the bathroom, and to fill up water bottles. They were also clutch for making food stretch longer. Thru hikers leverage the huts to supplement the food they carry either by buying homemade soup and baked goods or ogling for leftovers. Ironically, eating leftovers is a win-win situation. Everything, including food and food waste, is packed in and out by staff so they typically want to get rid of everything they can rather than carry it themselves. For thru hikers, two magic words are combined – “free” and “food”. Also of note, being a “croo” member at one of the huts looks like it would have been a fun and physically active summer job.

I do have a few recommendations for the Whites. As noted, you can’t go wrong with the Presidential Range or Franconia Ridge. Know your ability and have a plan. I think South Twin Mountain would have had a cool 360 view if it wasn’t cloudy when I was there. Wildcat D was the steepest slope. I wouldn’t recommend going down it unless you really want to. It was knee busting going southbound. A shorter hike, although still with some elevation, would be hiking up to Lonesome Lake. You can swim with a fabulous view of Franconia Ridge. There’s also an AMC hut right by the lake as well.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the Whites. I will say I’m relieved to be through them though. After 400 miles of rugged terrain I’m looking forward to a little easier going, hopefully that is. I’m also excited to experience the Green Mountains of Vermont which I know next to nothing about. Here I come – Green Bag

Survey marker on Mount Moriah to start the Whites

Hopefully next time I’ll get a view from South Twin. This photo is actually from North Twin

Most Popular Spot On Trail??

I’ve asked a lot of hikers what their favorite section of the Appalachian Trail is. Well over half say the White Mountains and if more specific, then Franconia Ridge. I had seen a photo or two of Franconia Ridge awhile back but didn’t make a strong mental note. I thought it can’t possibly be that great. There’s a lot of awesome spots out there. Well, it lived up to the hype.

My day started in a wet mess from the heavy rain I set up camp in the night before. The sky was clear though. It was setting up to be a beautiful day, the first nice day in quite awhile. I took a break on Mount Garfield before heading over to Franconia Ridge. Clouds covered the top of Franconia Ridge and more were rolling in. In a stroke of luck the skies cleared over Franconia Ridge as I was ascending Mount Lafayette. I didn’t fully know what to expect. Given its popularity and focusing on “ridge” I didn’t expect a rather steep, long climb. There was a lot of excitement and urgency to get up on the ridge before potential thunderstorms moved in so the climb was quickly forgotten.

The landscape was spectacular. The rocky alpine terrain with bright green grass might be my favorite of all. I had a view of the Presidentials to the east. An even better view of the Kinsmans and Lonesome Lake was to the west. It’s now obvious to me why Franconia Ridge is an incredibly famous spot. I thoroughly enjoyed the few miles of ridge waking over Mount Lincoln and down towards Mount Liberty away from the crowd on Lafayette. The only thing better would be walking the ridge at sunset. That’ll have to wait for next time. Until then – Green Bag

Franconia Ridge in the clouds from Mount Garfield

View west from Mount Lafayette (Back and Left : Mount Moosilauke, Front and Center: Lonesome Lake, Back Center: North and South Kinsman Mountains, Front Right: Cannon Mountain)

View down the ridge towards Mount Lincoln

The peaks of the Presidentials were still in the clouds but infront were nice views of Mountain Garfield, North Twin and South Twin Mountains

Sunset over Franconia Ridge from Mount Flume

Feeling Presidential

The Presidential Range is located near the northeastern side of the White Mountains. It boasts the highest peaks in the northeast region including Mount Washington. The day I was going to start the Presidential Range an all day rain with a chance of thunderstorms was in the forecast. That’s not ideal when there’s 12 or 13 miles of alpine zone above tree line. I was the only name on the shuttle sign up board to Pinkham Notch and the hostel’s phone was already ringing off the hook at 7:30am with people trying to stay the night. Unfortunately you don’t get to choose the weather. You can only avoid it for so long, and it was time to get back on the trail. I set out in the pouring rain towards Mount Madison. Except for a family coming down towards the visitors center and a NOBO who tried to talk me out of heading up Mount Madison, I was the only one on the trail. That was neat, actually. The rain really wasn’t that bad and eventually let up. Yes, I was soaked, but that would be a common theme of my time in the Whites. As I got to tree line it was just misty and wasn’t all that windy. The wind in the Presidentials was my biggest concern. It’s my least favorite hiking weather condition. Mount Madison was a long climb with a lot of false summits. It was especially deceiving only being able to see to the next carin in the fog. Eventually I reached the top though in a rather anticlimactic cloud. I ended up splitting the Presidential Range into two days by coming below tree line to camp after summiting Mount Adams which also had no view at the time.

The next day I woke up in a cloud, and it dumped rain as I went up to Mount Jefferson. The clouds started to lift for a brief minute as I headed towards Washington but I guess I jinxed it by putting on sunscreen. Back in the clouds it was. They say Mount Washington has the worst weather in the world and the highest wind speed ever recorded was at the summit. Luckily it was just a cloudy, relatively calm day which I didn’t mind at all despite the lack of views. The ascent was just another long climb but not technical or even difficult. Most of the range is hopping rock to rock so it’s slow going but not hard. All the sudden I could see the summit sign, a relief in case the weather got worse. Only a few people were gathered around but I got a summit picture and went inside the visitor center. It’s ironic how different the two most famous mountains on the AT are. Katahdin is a undeveloped sanctuary and Mount Washington is built up with roads, towers, and a train. Even with “bad weather” there were lots of tourists up there via car or train.

I continued on going up each peak in the clouds with no views. I left Lake of the Clouds Hut around 5pm and it was still cloudy. I wish I would have taken a picture or two so you better understand what a typical cloudy weather day in the White Mountains has been for me. I keep my phone tucked away so it doesn’t get wet though. It is my map and guide after all. On Mount Monroe and just beyond the wind picked up. It ended up being a blessing. The strong winds blew the clouds right away. For about two hours at the end of the day there were clear skies and the cloud covered peaks emerged after two days of hiding. Standing on top of Mount Eisenhower near sunset was incredible. To the west was a beautiful orange sky and to the east the high Presidential summits I had just come from. I also hadn’t seen another person in 2 hours. Not that I don’t like people, but some solitude in a picturesque, quiet place is always welcomed. It will be a moment on trail I will cherish. Long live – Green Bag

Sign near the summit of Mount Washington

View from Mount Eisenhower to the east of the Presidentials (left to right Adams, Jefferson, Washington, Monroe)

The sunset got even better on Mount Pierce

One State – One Month

On day 30 I stepped into New Hampshire leaving Maine behind. One state complete. One month on trail. Some reflections:

⁃ Starting with timing, I expected Maine to take one month starting SOBO, and that’s precisely what it took. Spot on there. We’ll see if a month for New Hampshire and Vermont combined holds true. I’m thinking it might take just a couple extra days.

⁃ The Maine terrain is about what I expected. Lots of rocks and roots. I was once told in a dramatically drawn out monologue, “All of Maine is connected. All the roots are connected. It’s one big web.” I laughed at the delivery, but it was true.

⁃ Physically, I feel good. I’d say better than expected. There’s some minor aches and soreness that come and go, sure. Thankfully nothing is serious or limiting. This is a big lift in spirit for me.

⁃ Katahdin and the hundred mile wilderness feel so long ago. The previous challenges don’t seem so bad or even a challenge at all.

⁃ While it feels good to have one of the harder states complete, I am a bit anxious about the White Mountains.

⁃ Weather has been kind to me. Yes, there have been rainy days but none that bothered me.

⁃ I’m definitely still in the “honeymoon phase” of the trail. It hasn’t gotten difficult yet. It will.

⁃ The people I’ve met so far have been nothing short of incredible. I’ve met people who’ve come far and wide, who are young and old, and have all kinds of backgrounds and personalities. It’s quite the community. The trail unites people in ways I haven’t seen anywhere else.

The day I stepped into New Hampshire was a fitting end to the first month’s walk through Maine. It actually wasn’t a great day. Possibly my worst day on trail so far despite the excitement of completing my first state. It was hot and muggy. I had a headache. My ankle was sore. The terrain didn’t let up despite being through the Mahoosuc Arm and Notch. My food bag was almost empty. All I could think about was town a day away. Yet in an instance, it all changed. I got an awesome view of two moose foraging in a lake, the first I’ve seen on trail. Then the evening ended by rather spontaneously camping at a stealth spot with a beautiful sunset over the White Mountains. You know what they say? The bad days get better and the good days are great. – Green Bag

Southern Maine

I already mentioned Maine, in particular southern Maine, is often overlooked. Honestly, I’m not sure where the cutoff of “southern” Maine is to begin with. Thinking in terms of the trail, I guess I’d say south of crossing the Kennebec River or maybe south of Stratton/Carrabassett Valley. It could even just be the 30 mile stretch south of Andover. I don’t know. I did walk it though. I also can tell you despite my own warning, southern Maine surprised me a bit. I’m not talking about the areas I knew to expect. These were sections such as the Saddlebacks and Mahoosuc Notch. I’ll get to those in a minute. The trail in southern Maine is up and down, through roots and over rocks. It seems never ending, and all NOBOs and Flip Floppers (start northbound then flip back to where they started and go southbound) want to talk about are the White Mountains in New Hampshire.

The general difficulty of Southern Maine made the parts everyone talks about not seem so bad. Saddleback and the Horn were steep, yes. The 3 mile stretch of trail above tree line connecting them was magnificent however. In fact, I’d say it was my favorite day on trail so far. It totally wiped the climb, which wasn’t really that bad after all, from my mind. Mahoosuc Notch, “the toughest mile” of the AT, was actually quite fun. It was different. That made it exciting. Mahoosuc Notch is a mile long stretch of “trail” consisting of large boulders and small crevices. At times taking off your pack and contorting yourself through is necessary. It’s a rock scramble but not steep. The Notch breaks up the mundane straight up, straight down, rinse, and repeat of southern Maine. It’s refreshing, and literally too. The area is so cool and shaded that ice still exists in the deepest portions even in mid July, a nice reprieve from the humidity above. It took two hours for that one mile. That’s right around the average too. Tough, yes, toughest? No, but it certainly is a fun, slog of a challenge. As a NOBO said, “Each challenge prepares you for the next.” The White Mountains are on deck. More to come – Green Bag

View of Saddleback Mountain from the Horn

One of a handful of tight squeezes in Mahoosuc Notch

Photo credits to Spud, the only guy who might like potatoes more than me

Gear Shift

So, what’s in this green bag you ask? The saying, “Everything you need and nothing that you don’t” applies almost perfectly here. The name of the game is to go as light as possible. I started with around 21 pounds of base weight. That’s everything you carry except for consumables (food and water) and wearables (the set of clothing one hikes in). 21 pounds isn’t bad, but it’s not optimal and certainly not “ultralight”. I’ll never be truly ultralight with my pack and tent which are on the heavier side. The green backpack is staying for obvious reasons. It’s also quite comfortable. I like the tent, and the cost justification isn’t quite there to save a pound or so. Regardless, I haven’t made the sacrifices to go full-blown ultralight. We’re talking like 10 pounds light. I have made some sacrifices though to cut some weight. They were painful at times but worth it.

I’ll start with the first shakedown. This was done partially myself and partially by Poet at Shaw’s Hiker Hostel in Monson. Shaw’s is probably the most famous hostel on the trail and lives up to the hype. Poet and Hippie Chick, former thru hikers themselves, are both incredible people who run the hostel and gear shop. Some things I replaced with lighter or more useful versions, such as the rope and water bag respectively. Others I completely ditched. I could have been named Dry Bag instead of Green Bag. One big trash bag works just fine. Lots of clothing got sent home, some of which is made possible by the summer season. The down jacket is returning shortly for the White Mountains. The med kit was also slimmed down. Don’t worry. I still have the essentials. Eliminating all that extra stuff even allowed me to reduce the physical size of my pack. I subtracted about three pounds in total. It doesn’t sound like much but when your back gets sore after a week of hiking, believe me it is. If you don’t use something after a few days, you don’t need it. Simple as that.

A week later I decided to cut some more weight. That’s the second photo. Same story, things I never used or replaced with lighter versions. The big sacrifice was the stove. I did use it quite a bit. Ultimately, I decided roughly a pound and a half gone was worth it. That includes the stove, pot, and fuel canister which isn’t shown. Maybe I’ll do a separate post to cover what I eat on a daily basis. Close to two pounds was taken off the base weight. I don’t know for certain, but I’m guessing my base weight is about 17 pounds now. I’m comfortable at that weight. Light enough to be nimble but not obnoxiously light either. Check out what’s left. – Green Bag

The first shakedown in Monson after the hundred mile wilderness

Here’s just about everything left that I carry. Tent, rope, and rain jacket are out to dry. Yes, I cut the handle off the toothbrush…

The Overlooked

The last trail specific update was from Monson, Maine after the hundred mile wilderness. Beyond Monson there are a few days of rather easy walking to the Kennebec, River. The trail was relatively flat with two moderate climbs. Moxie Bald, cool name and all, and Pleasant Pond Mountain were both neat stops along the way. The trail then crosses the Kennebec River in Caratunk/The Forks, Maine. The Kennebec is 400 feet wide, deep at parts, and fast flowing. It is the largest unbridged river crossing of the trail. The drought made it tempting to ford, but that is unwise. People have died attempting to ford it. Hence, there is now a ferry that shuttles hikers safely across the river. By ferry, I mean a canoe. It does have a white blaze on the bottom. That makes it officially part of the AT. We gently paddled across to complete the easiest 100 yards of the trail. There were a couple of nice waterfalls on the other side during one more easy day of walking.

I keep mentioning “easy.” The trail is definitely not easy, but of course, some days are easier than others. Those days have come to an end for awhile. Southern Maine is, by some accounts, the toughest portion of the AT. It’s often overlooked as it is sandwiched between Katahdin/the hundred mile wilderness and the White Mountains of New Hampshire, both famously noted as tough sections. Southern Maine is rugged. The trail goes over several 4000 foot peaks and includes many other steep climbs along the way full of roots and rocks. I’m through the Bigelows and the Crockers. When you’re not literally in the clouds, the views are spectacular. It’s cool to be able to see where you’ve been and where you’re going. Overall it hasn’t been so bad just yet in southern Maine but more to come. Onto to Saddleback next headed for New Hampshire in close to a hundred miles. – Green Bag

Trekking poles extended for size. Roots grow both below and above ground

Rugged terrain in the clouds heading up the Bigelows

Bigelows in the distance while not in the clouds

Sugarloaf and Spaulding Mountains up next

Green Bag

The moment you’ve been waiting for, my trail name. Green Bag. It makes a lot more sense when you see my bright green backpack. Simple as that – no money bag, leafy substance, or artillery references involved. It started when I section hiked close to 50 miles of the AT in Pennsylvania with Beast in 2018. After a couple hours on trail another thru hiker named Skywalker said something along the lines of, “I really like his green backpack. It’s such nice, bright green. Let’s call him Green Bag.” It stuck for section hiking that year. I also happen to have a brighter green day pack and had a run in with a crazy lady (some would call her the stereotypical “Karen”) in the Adirondacks who aggressively called me “Green Backpack”. Given all that, Green Bag has remained a loose trail name. Would it stick for my AT thru-hike though?

I didn’t force it. That’s not cool for a first time thru-hiker. Some do that or a least try to. A fellow hiker named Freeze Dry will never be Lucky Charms as he introduced himself. He will always be Freeze Dry. It’s a way cooler name than Lucky Charms anyway. Apparently that was given to him (I forget when or why) so it’s not as bad as others who attempt to name themselves. This hiker dehydrated 120 homemade meals and posted a picture of his freezer on Facebook before his hike. Naturally he became Freezer Guy or Freeze Dry. When he corrects us that the meals are actually dehydrated and not freeze dried, well, that means it’s Freeze Dry all the more. That’s typically how it works out here. All in good fun of course. I will admit I’m jealous of his gourmet, *freeze dried*, trail food. I guess he gets the last laugh.

Therefore I went by Evan for a few days. My previous section hikes would come up in conversation and I’d casually mention being called Green Bag. Before long, Green Bag started to stick. That’s partially because it was easy to remember. Even going southbound there’s quite a lot of names to remember. On top of it, most hikers currently have two names, real name and trail name, floating around which makes them difficult to keep straight. However, I’d say the biggest reason Green Bag has become official and accepted in the SOBO community is due to me taking my full pack all the way up Katahdin. Even two weeks later I’m still getting a big-eyed, impressed, “Oh, you’re the guy with the big, green backpack who carried it all the way up Katahdin. I remember you.” It’s an unexpected badge of honor. I thought more people would have done the same. Most as it turns out, especially SOBOs, opt for a borrowed daypack to summit Katahdin. My pack went all the way up Katahdin and hopefully goes all the way to Georgia. There you have it – Green Bag

The Hundred Mile Wilderness

Following the climb up and down Katahdin is a nine mile walk out of Baxter state park before entering the hundred mile wilderness. It is the most remote part of the Appalachian Trail. You are greeted by a sign advocating for 10 days worth of food and supplies. I happened to also be greeted here by a 2018 thru-hiker named Professor. I had never met Professor but instantly recognized him as having hiked several hundred miles with my good friend Beast in 2018. Beast’s thru hike and the ~150 miles I section hiked with him was a portion of the inspiration for me hiking the AT. Anyway, Professor and a couple of his friends were doing trail magic just down from the trailhead. Trail magic is any kind of form of helping out thru-hikers and can be done by anyone, usually intentionally but sometimes unintentionally. In this case it was burgers, hotdogs, PBR, and sodas. I ended up hanging out for three hours chatting and telling stories as other hikers passed by and joined in. All that before even officially starting the hundred mile wilderness. An unexpected offshoot to start the hundred mile wilderness and a roundabout way to start this post, but an accurate illustration of what thru hiking culture can be like. There’s a structured trail, yes, but an unstructured presence with it where “hiking your own hike” and embracing the experience wholeheartedly applies along the way.

While the hundred mile wilderness is indeed remote, it’s not completely removed from all civilization. There are some private roads, a tad bit of cell service in spots, a set of train tracks, the occasional day hiker, and the opportunity for a food drop halfway through the wilderness which I took advantage of. The back half which southbounders start with is a series of beautiful lakes, including my favorite spot in the hundred mile wilderness at the south end of Nahmakanta Lake for sunset, and ponds along mostly flat trail. It’s so flat that playful chides from northbounders already included “Enjoy your last flat day of the whole trail.” Halfway through the terrain gets rough. Limited water sources, relatively big climbs, and trail littered with rocks and roots made for a challenge. It took me seven days and a nero (low mileage day) to make it to the town of Monson. It was an awesome week. Mostly great weather, scenic views, and trail comradery forming with fellow thru hikers.

It wasn’t all roses though. One day I woke up in a cloud (Cloud Pond is appropriately named) soaking the clothing I left out to dry, started chafing in unfortunate places, slipped and fell into the creek twice, and had to set up my tent in the rain. I guess you could say that was my worst day so far, but a worst day like that was actually a really good day overall. Perspective matters a lot. Right now the perspective is I’m still out here, my body is feeling good, and I’m thoroughly enjoying what’s only the beginning of this awesome experience. With that, onward – Evan

Southern terminus of the hundred mile wilderness

Nahmakanta Lake, my favorite spot in the hundred mile wilderness

Whitecap Summit, tallest point in the hundred mile wilderness

Big K

“Big K”, not one of a few possible department store references, not a strikeout in baseball, and not the computer magazine or the international prototype of the Kilogram, but Mount Katahdin, aka “Big K” in Maine hiker lingo. Mount Katahdin in Baxter State Park, Maine stands 5267 feet tall. It’s an imposing figure in the generally low-lying Maine landscape surrounding it. It is a big, bad mountain. Its peak is also the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. For northbounders it is the magnificent end to a long journey culminating with an iconic photo on top of the sign at the peak. For southbounders, after an approximately 4000-foot ascent, it’s only the beginning of the trek to Georgia.

Summitting Katahdin is a challenge. In fact, in my previous attempt a few years back I didn’t make it anywhere near the top. Still, I don’t intend to gloom and doom as it’s doable. This time I made it, full pack and all. The climb starts out with a couple miles of moderate ascent along a creek with a nice waterfall. The trail then turns to mud and rocks much like those of the high peaks in the Adirondacks. Then the fun starts. A near mile long rock scramble to climb another thousand feet follows, all of it above tree line. After that rugged section, you’re in the clear. Finally, a mile, mile and a half “flat” stretch to the summit is all that’s left.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time at top. Lucky for me it was a beautiful, clear day. The views were nothing short of spectacular. My full pack and still relatively clean clothing easily identified me as SOBO thru-hiker getting ready to start. A couple of former AT thru-hikers who were hanging out at the top excitedly offered their encouragement. Among their advice was “The bad days get better and the good days are great. Enjoy every minute of it.” With that, off I go – Evan

The Mountains are Calling, and I Must Go

Greetings,

I’m excited to have the opportunity to thru-hike the Appalachian Trail this year! I’ll be headed southbound from the top of Mount Katahdin in Baxter State Park, Maine to the top of Springer Mountain in Amicalola Falls State Park, Georgia. That’s approximately 2193 miles of continuous footpath.

Why am I doing this, you ask? Well, for one I like to hike. In fact, I really like to hike. I guess that’s a good start. Hiking the Appalachian Trail or a similar long distance thru-hike has long been a thought and a bucket list type item for me. As I grew up my dad mentioned on several occasions how he’d love to hike the AT someday. Unfortunately, that possibility no longer seems like a reality. So for me, what better time to give it a try then now? There’s no job I loathe. I happen like my job quite a lot. There’s no pressing need for “finding myself”. I am looking forward to the time to decompress and reflect though. I simply have a goal I want to prioritize and want to give it a shot.

I always kind of envisioned disappearing for six months, hiking the trail, and coming back like nothing happened. I certainly didn’t envision blogging about it. I’ve been gracious of the interest and support of so many since I decided to embark on this journey. Therefore, here I am typing out my first blog post. I truly am excited to share the adventure with anyone who is interested in following along. I’ll do my best to post an update every week or two, and hopefully I’ll improve the format along the way. I hope the blog satisfies your interest, makes you smile, passes some time, and maybe even inspires you. Please reach out with any comments, questions, or feedback. Better yet, if you’d like to meet up and hike some miles with me, just reach out! With that, happy trails – Evan